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There are only three parts to the golf club (four if you have a decorative ferrule) – the head, the shaft, and the grip – it ain’t rocket science, but if you have the wrong head, shaft or grip the game will be near impossible for you to play.
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Your driver swing speed will determine you driver loft and shaft flex. What is your driver swing speed?
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Your 5 iron swing speed will determine the flex of the shafts in your iron. What is your 5 iron swing speed?
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Every golfer looking at a driver in a golf store looks at the head first and then holds the club by the grip and “waggles” the club. However, he or she rarely looks at the most important part – the shaft. (You don’t believe me? Watch the next time you are in your favorite golf shop!)
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The “used club” and “returned club” section of any golf store is full of 7 ½, 8 ½ and 9 ½ degree drivers? Why is that?
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The correct driver for you is not the one you can hit the farthest. It is the one you can hit with consistency. The woods are full of long hitters. Remember, Fred Funk wore a skirt when out drove by Anika Sorenstam, but took home the money
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Loft is your friend. If you can swing at 140 MPH like a PGA Touring Pro, you can get away with a 9 degree driver –or less. If you swing at 75 MPH, that 9 degree driver is hurting your golf game, no matter what the salesman told you! The slower your swing speed, the more lofted club you should have. Have you ever heard a golfer say he can hit his 3W farther than his driver? That’s because his 13 degree 3W can put the ball out there farther than his 9 degree driver! Imagine holding a pistol and firing it when it is parallel with the ground. How do you make the next round go farther? Right – you elevate the gun! In custom golf clubmaking we add loft! Loft is your friend.
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The shaft is the engine of the club. Arguably, it is 50% of the club, the head is 45% and the grip 5%. (Why doesn’t anyone look at the shaft?)
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The average length of a driver on the PGA tour is 44.5”. How long is yours? Is your driver longer than the average PGA tour driver? Why?
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The golf industry has no standard flexes. What is a stiff flex for one shaft manufacturer is can be a regular flex for another. (When a salesman tells you that you take a “regular” flex, ask him how he knows and for what shaft . . . )
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With exception, most – not all, clubheads are made in a few foundries in Taiwan & Mainland China.
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I know of no Original Equipment Maker (OEM) that makes their own shafts. They are jobbed out to shaft companies – sometimes multiple companies for the same shaft.
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The golf industry has no standard length for golf clubs. What is important is that every club be separated by ½ inch. For example, if your driver is 45” long, your 2W (if you carry one) should be 44 1/2” long, your 3W 44”, your 4W (if you carry one) 43 ½” long, your 5W 43”, etc., etc., etc.
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Your irons should also be separated by ½”. If your 5 iron is 38”, your 4 iron should be 38 ½” long, and your 6 iron 37 ½” long. You figure out the rest!
A “poor man’s” custom set of clubs includes a set of clubs where all the clubs are cut ½” apart, the grips are all the same (and in good shape!), the swing weight is the same through out the irons and through out the woods, and the loft and lie are correct.
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Lie is one of the most important physical attributes of your irons. If the lie is wrong, that is either flat or upright, your shots will go left or right, more in the wedges and less in the long irons. (Ever wonder why you full wedge shots went right or left?)
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If your grip is comfortable, you have the right grip. But if it is too small or too large, you can be pushing or pulling your shots.
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Are all your grips identical? Why not?
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Most golfers cannot hit their long irons (3, 4 & 5). Can you?
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Hybrids are rapidly beginning to replace the long irons (your 3, 4 & 5 irons). They can be seen on the pro tours. Why do you still hit your long irons? Did you know that with custom clubs you can buy a set of irons without the 3, 4 & 5 irons. Try telling a retailer that you want a set of irons without the 3, 4 and 5 iron!
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Do you know that an 11 ½ * driver is only 11 ½ * at the “sweet spot?” It can be as much as 13* at the top of the face and 9* at the bottom – that is because of “roll,” or the roundness of the head from top to bottom. (The horizontal “roundness” of a club, from side to side, is called bulge) So, if you want to hit your 11 ½* driver at 11 ½*, you better hit it at the sweet spot. That is why you hear that you should tee the ball higher – but not too high. Ideally the equator of the ball should be at the top of face of the driver. Pour baby powder onto your ball if you want to see where it strikes the face!
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Did you know the “sweet spot” is exactly that – a spot on the face of a club? It is not an “area”. You cannot increase the size of the “sweet spot.” You can increase the hitting area – but not the sweet spot!
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Did you know that nearly all woods are made with plus or minus 1 degree and that very same driver we talked about in #20 may really be a 10 ½* or 12 ½* club! With custom clubs you can order a precise loft. Just try and ask a retailer to hand pick a
club head for you!
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